2. Toilet paper Sheets

(pure Cellulose)

lay on the bottom, to prevent the soil

from being washed away.

1. Preparing the pots:

If you want to use so-called trays,

make a cut from hole to hole

so that you can easily remove

the plants later.

Single pots should not be too large, because soil that

is not penetrated by roots acts like a wet compress,

which can cause the roots to rot.

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Tomatoes have a growing season that is longer than our Central European summers. That is why they are grown indoors from February/March, pricked out and only planted outside after the last frost.

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Pricking Tomatoes

©Hannelore Goos 2026

These tomato seedlings have grown in Niem coins.
They each have at least four real leaves and can now be pricked out.

In my experience, the best tool for this is a Chinese chopstick..

Two plastic cups each with a cocos ball with plantlets

Backside of the tray bottom with the scissors cutting it

3. Tomato soil mix
    with 1/3 lava granulate
    to reduce nutrient content.

    Commercially available tomato
    soil is often over-fertilised, which
    damages the roots.

4. Cut open and remove the wrapping from the cocofibre balls.

Cut-open husk with the coconut ball and seedlings peeking out

5. Carefully pull the seedlings apart..

Six small seedlings laying apart with small root balls

6. Fill the pots with soil and make a hole in the middle.

A chopstick is stuck deep in the ground, forming a hole.

7. . Put ½ teaspoon of mycorrhizal expanded clay into each hole.

Plastic bag and Mycorrhizal expanded clay in the soil hole

8. Now place a seedling as deep as possible into each
    hole so that the bare roots come into contact with the
    mycorrhizae pellets and press the soil firmly around
    it.

9. Don't forget the labels!

6 Pots with plantlets and yellow labels.

After pricking out, place the tomatoes in a cool (±18°C) and very bright spot so that they grow strong and sturdy. Window light is not sufficient if you have double or triple glazing!

It is normal for them to stop growing at this stage; the symbiosis must form and new roots must grow. Do not use fertiliser to "help" them along, as this will interfere with healthy development! Fertiliser should only be used again when planting in the bed (lime and sheep's wool pellets).

A Trayer with Tomatoe plants 4 weeks after pricking